Piña Palmera - an oasis and opportunity for people with disabilities on the southern coastal Oaxaca

Piña Palmera, an independent-living program, based in Zipolite, for persons with disabilities including children and adults, has been a major resource in our area for over 20+ years. Adults and children from the rural communities that dot our coastal area have an opportunity to become independent, develop skills to facilitate their independence, and promote the acceptance of people with disabilities with dignity and respect. Clients are referred to Piña Palmera by doctors, outreach workers, families, communities and word of mouth. They come as outpatient or live-in clients, for education, vocational training, and learning independent living skills. Many clients have mainstreamed into their communities, living healthy, active lives, creating their own families, raising children, and earning respectable livings from the skills learned at Piña Palmera.

Using a wheelchair myself, it has been interesting/frustrating to experience accessibility throughout the world, and getting around in Mexico has been a challenge.... Ignorance, lack of publicity and enforcement of disability laws are all components that hold back opportunities for many people with disabilities in Mexico, especially in the rural areas, including Oaxaca. Anyone who has traveled in Mexico can attest to the challenge. In Oaxaca this is compounded by the very fact that it is still a very rural state, with little infrastructure to facilitate people with disabilities. Inclusive schools are haphazard at best, as a result many children are excluded from an education. Job opportunities in rural areas are almost nonexistent, and typically, many disabled workers are self-employed or do not work.

Piña Palmera’s mission statement says it all: “Our mission is to contribute to the improvement of the quality of life for people with disabilities and their families in the southern coast of Oaxaca.” Our tour guide, Helen Heule, a volunteer there for four years, spoke to us at great length about Piña Palmera’s programs and their clients. They serve over 400 individuals right now, from communities including Puerto Escondido, Rio Grande, Morro Mazatan, Candelaria Loxicha, Tierra Blanca, Zipolite, and Cozoaltepec. Founded by Frank Douglas in 1984, it was initially built as a shelter for children with disabilities, and in the early days, many children were abandoned there. There are still four clients there from those days, and you would have to be very tough at heart to not want to reach out and do something for them and all of the others that come into Piña Palmera. In 1997, Piña Palmera was completely destroyed by Hurricane Paulina. It has since rebuilt into a what feels like a small African village, with round houses (brick) with thatched roofs, set in groves of palms and mango trees. Both the Swedish and Japanese governments have made contributions to the rebuilding and continuation of Piña Palmera after Paulina. Pina Palmera does not receive any funding from the state or federal government.

The day Larry and I visited, we had an opportunity of observe an early intervention session, with therapists working with toddlers in developing their physical/cognitive skills. Our tour led us through the lovely, park-like campus, and we visited the wood shop, paper making shop, and various therapy rooms. We met several volunteers, most of whom have been there for more than two years. Their enthusiasm, integrity, and skills have created a unique, compassionate, experience for their clients. The wood shop and paper making shop are run by former clients, now responsible for the business of creating beautiful handcrafted products and running the businesses. Francisco, himself a former client, was supervising the paper making process the day we visited. These lovely pieces of art are sold in Piña Palmera’s gift shop, run by Patricia, also a former client, which winningly displays the beautiful (and famous) flying wood birds, in brilliant and subtle colors, and diaries made of the homemade paper (colors are all natural dies including the reds from almond shells, and flowers and leaves are often in the paper). They also sell artisan crafts made by other persons with disabilities, artists in the area, allowing an outlet for many of these talented people.

Piña Palmera, though needs help. The world economy has hurt their funding tremendously. Flavia Anau, the director, indicated they are succeeding by a fragile thread, and are greatly in need of an infusion of money and volunteers. The money issue is obvious. It is expensive to pursue the dream of independence and acceptance in an area like Oaxaca. Of their many needs, a carpenter with machine experience would be greatly appreciated. Their woodworking workshop needs a leader that can teach others to work in wood, and maintain their machinery. A perfect fit for a retired carpenter!

Piña Palmera has started up an internet cafe as a way of funding the facility (minimally) , and they could use a computer tech type person to troubleshoot the computers, and train others in maintenance and solutions to the myriad small problems that come with computers. On Saturdays, one can have a massage ($250 peso donation) or a temazcal and massage for $300 peso donation, another fund raising project. After your temazcal and massage, there is pizza served (included in cost) made in their new brick oven. The brick oven is also used for their fledgling ceramics workshop, as they just made a pottery wheel in their wood shop, and are using the oven for their ceramic projects (along with the pizza!). They are also selling used clothing once a week, to help acquire more funds, but at this point it is all too little.

Volunteers come from all over the world, Europe, the US and Canada. They ask volunteers to stay at least six months for obvious reasons. Relationships are built slowly. Working with families, communities, and schools takes time. Volunteers come with credentials such as physical therapists, occupational therapists, psychologists,and medical doctors, but this is not required to volunteer here. All they ask of volunteers though, is their willingness to do what needs to be done, and learn Spanish if they do not yet know the language. Volunteers can live on the campus for a slight charge of $150 pesos a month, which covers room and board. Meals are cooked in a community kitchen for both clients and staff.

Volunteers and clients interact with the ease of family. We felt it even upon our arrival, being welcomed warmly, and introduced around as seemingly old friends. Helen greeted everyone with a touch, and show of support and respect. She represented the very best of one of their major goals “to generate social acceptance in the region towards people with disabilities”. This is one of the major thrusts of this organization. They have been particularly active in the communities, especially in the schools and municipalities, in sensitizing people to the acceptance of people with disabilities, and to facilitate the goal of independence through accessibility. But it has been a mixed bag at best. Some schools/communities embrace students with special needs. They are supported by Piña Palmera, and train not only teachers but students in practicing inclusion. (Sign language and brail are taught at the facility by former clients. Families, teachers, and community members are encouraged to take classes.) Other schools will not take these children, who obviously then are left out of any opportunity of attaining independence and dignity, except through the programs at Piña Palmera.

If you are in the area, visit! If you can help by lending a hand, do it! Go to their web site:
http://www.piñapalmera.org and read their extensive information regarding their history, purpose, and progress reports. If you care to donate money, information is on their web site. Donations of educational toys and developmental tools would be helpful, but if you have a skill you can teach others to facilitate independence, all the better. We all can do something during this time of economic struggles, to lessen theirs. It is a worthwhile, admirable project.

"I think it's hot in here..."

Maggie cooling off....

It is hot. If the snowbirds haven’t left by now, they are packing up and getting out as I type. We are getting the heat about a month early. Usually this is the windy month, then we get the heat, then we get the rain. Rain. Let’s hope it comes a month early too. But, this is not an excuse! I have been busy. Friends are coming and going, as my head spins. We have languid days swimming, sipping, and long lovely sweetly scented evenings with friends eating and laughing. The flowers that let out their aromas at night surround me with memories of childhood summers in the Sacramento Valley. The owls are mating and damn they are loud suckers when on the hunt. I remember last year, when nephew Jon was here, they were keeping him awake with that beep that just touches the nerve. I’m more sympathetic this year, I agree, at times they might be annoying.

I am writing for our local expat paper “Huatulco Eye”. I just wrote an article about a place that needs help here, Piña Palmera, a center to teach children and adults with disabilities to live as independently as possible. They are taught skills that will financially support them and their families. Or at the least, live independently, with dignity. Go to their website: http://www.pinapalmera.org/index_en.htm. They could use money, volunteers - especially carpenters who aren’t afraid to teach others how to work on projects with wood, i.e., their flying birds are famous, and maintain the wood shop machines and teach others how to maintain them as well. I’m thinking, for you Cali peeps, a Dave Alt would be perfect! They also have a start-up internet cafe business going, and they need a techie to maintain and teach others to maintain this business. Everyone who works there is a volunteer. They come from all over the world. Mostly youngish, but some retired folks as well. All they ask is that you stay for 6 months, and try and learn some Spanish. The clients will melt your hearts.

Twenty-five years ago it was a place that families/communities just “dumped” their children with disabilities and so started as a specialized orphanage. There are just four clients left from those days but they service about 400 from southern coastal Oaxaca. You can choose either residential or outpatient therapy, or a combination, as some of these people live in communities that aren’t so easy to go to, or get out of, on any given day. I’ll put the article up on my blog when it is published here, but I urge you to check them out. They make incredible handicrafts including bird mobiles that are breathtaking, and they have their own paper making shop, that does fine work. They have a little store on their campus that sells to tourists/visitors. Amazing handicrafts are found there, all done by persons with disabilities, not just from clients of Piña Palmera.

Now, to change the subject, the condos on the beach below us are more than half done. It has been so noisy this year, and although we protested impotently, I now cannot wait until they are done. This development was our first real taste on how things go in Mexico, but we knew already, before protests even had time to make an impact. The one big lesson we learned is that truly one government agency does not know what the other government agency does (much like what goes on in the US), and there, as they old saying goes, “but for the nail in the shoe” it was a done deal. Let it go.....

But for all that, and aside the every so slightly awful rise in temperature, and this walking issue, life is good. We are having a very rich life here. Not everyone gets an opportunity to learn a new culture and language as intimately as we have, it has been such a powerful experience. Plus the cats are lovin’ the lizards and snakes. Great stuff!

Mexico City in a Taxi, Pt 3

“I've been everywhere, man.
I've been everywhere, man.
Crossed the desert's bare, man.
I've breathed the mountain air, man.
Of travel I've had my share, man.
I've been everywhere.” Johnny Cash

Thought of Johnny Cash’s song, when Karen said to me “I’ve been everywhere, but never seen traffic like Mexico City”. Amen, Karen! Never have we seen traffic like Mexico City. Closest to it was in Bali, when 100 motos cut in front of us to get through a traffic light first, and maybe Italy’s roundabouts where getting off the roundabout gets standing ovations from observers and passengers alike, but they have nothing on Mexico City. We taxied everywhere, because we wanted to see everything...

We took our first big ride out to the pyramids at Teotihuacan. The hotel recommended a guide with nice taxi rather than just a taxi, because in the end it would be cheaper...hum.... What could we say? Our guide picked us up, and weaved his way through city traffic with such ease in face of chaos. He drove on the dirt roads like he was racing a street car on a dirt track, but we got there in one piece. He took us to a stone carving business on the way to the pyramids, as is custom, when you get into a taxi, you will be stopping by businesses that sell to tourists, no matter if you want to or not. Of course the workshop was amazing. The artists do the most incredible pieces of stone work we have ever seen. The prices were higher than we have ever seen as well. But we did learn to tell the difference between a "manufactured" artifact, and a true carving by hand.... But after our visit to the pyramids, it was the ride back that did us in.

Forty years ago the Basilica was out in the middle of no where, trust me, and is now surrounded by a city still growing, really growing. In front of the Basilica our car nearly kissed a bus, passionately, but our man was steady, calm, did not bat an eye professional, and with the hand of Mary surely helping, the bus yielded. I took my cues from the driver, and didn’t move, nada... In back of me were white-knuckled, ashen-faced, heavy-breathing husband and friends. We bought a rose petal rosary right where it happened, just to keep the juju moving toward positive. The Basilica itself is the most-visited shrine in the Americas. This is where the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego in 1531. The original church was built in the 18th century, but there is a spectacular new church, where the tunic of Diego with the Virgin’s body imprinted on it (as in a miracle), is displayed. I found it other worldly, and spiritual. Thank you tour guide/driver for that day.

In the evening, to go anywhere, even if it is in normal time a 10 minute drive, plan on 45 mins, and you may still be fashionably late. But we saw side streets, jugglers, traffic cops extraordinaire (doing that conducting a symphony thing), colonial buildings still standing, streets as old as Mexico, and parks, everywhere. Graffiti, poor Indian women carrying their goods on their heads, people at a Mont Blanc party that looked really, really rich (to say nothing of the cars surrounding that little shop) all danced before us.

Taxi drivers tend to end up being our tour guides, and we have found gems. Larry and I had split from Karen and Ed to go to Costco. (Hello, opportunity knocks!), Martin! We walked (pushed) up to the taxi stand at the Museo and snagged a driver, Martin, telling him we wanted to go to Costco. He laughed, opened up his trunk and displayed a “Costco” sign. Turns out he works there on his days off from taxi driving (because you need a break, truly). Has worked for them for 10+ years, his son works for them, etc. We got to the parking lot (in Sport City, an American-style mall, somehow stuffed between two freeways), and parked by the door. He went shopping too, and hung with friends until we were done. Where else, I ask myself, can you get a taxi driver who works at Costco, and made our experience there a hoot.

We did find the Liverpool, speaking of shopping. Karen and I agree it's a Macy’s (my love affair with Macy's has not ended) mixed with Nordstroms. We shopped. Prices same as in states, but designers from Italy and Spain... nice stuff. Plus we found sun-dried tomatoes, and our favorite, hard to find, tequila. We even tried to get cat treats from the pet department, but alas, cats aren’t so spoiled down here, no treats. We even found a Woolworth’s (when was the last time you were in one of those) across the street from Liverpool, and met the most charming elderly (even for us 60+ year olds and one 70 year old) lady latched right on to Karen, as she spoke English, and was dying to practice. We wondered how many tourists had even found this Woolworth’s to wander into it, but there she was, waiting for the likes of us.

Taxi driver to the National Palace was an educational ride. He pointed out buildings of interest, district names, and gave us our easiest ride in Mexico City. The National Palace is where Moctezuma’s palace was, then Cortes moved in, and now it is Mexico’s White House. Murals painted by Diego Rivera depict the revolutions, and his own personal take on the revolution. You can imagine, if you are familiar with Rivera’s history, what that point of view depicts. Those were fabulous, but the special bicentenial exhibit was still going on, and that had taken over half of the palace. What an experience. I hope it stays intact if it gets moved anywhere, because it is a very important exhibit reflecting on Mexico’s political history.


When we did finally get back to Huatulco, it was like being in alternative universe. The frantic pace slowed dramatically. We missed our quiet, sleepy little bay, but did not miss the traffic. Can’t say I have been everywhere, but Mexico City, was as exotic as any other city in the world, with much to offer. We had a lot of fun, as we always do with Karen and Ed. A lot of laughing are always involved. I cannot say enough how nice it is to have friends you can travel with, and still like each other at the end of it. We’re having fun back here in Huatulco, seeing the sights, socializing with winter people, and hanging by the pool, and we are still shaking our heads over Mexico City. Five days wasn’t enough to see everything, but it was long enough to want a break, so we already have a list of places to see next time.

Mexico City P. 2: Food

Hotel La Casona

There is a cooking revolution going on in Mexico City (and Oaxaca) right now, as Mexico and it’s chefs are turning out world-class, sophisticated, delicious cuisine, where local street food meets innovative chefs. Rick Bayless (guru of all things Mexican food in US), even has a list of stands on the street that are must visits. You all know I didn’t get this body eating salad, and luckily Ed was with me on this trip, but we ate at some fabulous restaurants.

Enrique Olvera, chef/owner of Pujols, gave us a night to remember. He went to cooking school at the Culinary Academy-Hyde Park, New York (the mecca of cooking schools in US), and worked in Chicago (think Grant Achatz if you are a foody). He runs a Mexican version of say a French Laundry (although you don’t have to sell your soul to the devil to eat there, unlike French Laundry). He is famous for “deconstructing” typical Mexican home cooking. From start to finish we marveled how he could get those flavors in every dish presented to us (by 4 waiters, one for each of us). We talked with him during desert, a great conversation about the food revolution coming out of Oaxaca. (The picture of the gourd left, contained the sweetest small corn I have ever tasted....) When we got home, an email was waiting for me, did I want to come back for a cooking class? Larry gave me the look, but I'm thinkin'....

We also hit Izote, a restaurant owned by Patricia Quintana, a legend in Mexico. We had food that reflected the very essence of Mexico. From Karen’s Chile Rellenos, stuffed with a smokey pork, Larry’s corn fungus (cuitlacoche) tacos, Ed’s fish tamale, and my red snapper with a cream/saffron sauce over cuitlacoche, we ate like pigs.....

One of our favorite places was the oldest candy store in Mexico, Dulceria de Celaya. My students have been bringing me sweets from Mexico for years, but really I had no idea. Traditional candies in Mexico are based on fruit, coconut, caramel, peanut marzipan, and sugar. OMG. This little store is in a building that they have been in since 1859, and when you go inside the shop, that is exactly where time has stopped. We bought two boxes of sweets for presents, then shamelessly raided them to try a piece of this and that. We were lucky we got them back to Hutualco at all. And if you received one of those boxes, I truly apologize, because it could have been a little fuller, I know.

We found a local wine bar, and hung out there a couple of afternoons, after a strenuous morning of touring, and talked to the young people in the neighborhood, while sipping wines from Mexico and Latin America. We had some great wines, outstanding being a Cab from Casa Madera (up in Baja), and some lovely Malbec from Argentina. Yum. But our true find was Che Genaro’s Argentine Italian Restaurant!. Owned by a former professional soccer player from Monterey, this gem was across the street from our hotel. Genaro greeted Larry and me on our first night there, while waiting for Karen and Ed to show up. We asked to see the wine list, he waved his hand and said red or white, and brought us out a Malbec, that was amazing. Then he plied us with empanadas (we ordered one, got three) , and finally, when we were nearing the end of that bottle, somehow there appeared before us a steak that could feed the neighborhood, and “here try this of wine” (another bottle, this time the Cab ). Fortunately, Karen and Ed showed up just in time, steak still warm, to help us finish it, and quaff that second bottle.

We went back on my birthday, and what a hoot. Got the ubiquitous bottle of wine (fab), and ordered. Karen and I went with chicken, Ed went with the pasta, Larry decided gnocchi (being the semi-vegetarian that he is and he had mentioned it to Genaro on our previous night), we were salivating. Everyone got their plate, Larry included, but in front of him was a side of veal, slow roasted all day, a most amazing dish. Where’s the gnocchi? Larry asks. Genaro, laughed and said, “you didn’t want the gnocchi, this is far better”. It was divine....I know all the nastiness surrounding veal, but OMG. A slip once in a while cannot be a mortal sin, can it? So good.

We really didn’t make a dent in the eating opportunities, and are looking forward to going up again to continue on with our list of places we have to try. The food gods truly blessed this country. ...... Ok, to be continued - just one more blog I swear on this trip...

Mexico City Pt. 1

Larry and I met up with our friends Karen and Ed in Mexico City last week. As anyone who has been listening to my slightly excessive rap .. well none of us had been to Mexico City for about 40 years (give and take). We fell in love with this city all over again. And one of the truisms in life, that I embrace these days, is that it is better to have a reasonable chunk of money to splurge, than staying in the local cheap-ass hotel at $1.25 a night located from my Frommer’s $5 a Day book 40+ years ago. But, oh, Mexico is so exciting, beautiful, crazy, richly historic, and just plain fun!


We stayed in a highly recommended neighborhood The Condesa, near the Zona Rosa, Roma, and Polanco Colonel districts. Where Polanco is the very high end neighborhood (sort of like Rodeo Drive in BH, or anywhere in Las Vegas), to the infamous Zona Rosa, where bohemia Mexico used to flock, each of these neighborhoods have a distinctive character. The devastating earthquake of 1985, sadly killing over 10,000 people, almost completely destroyed the city of Mexico. Many of the wonderful old colonial-era architecture is gone, and the late 19th/early 20th century Diaz-era architecture was almost severly damaged too. I cannot emphasis that from this devastation rose again, like the phoenix, an incomparable city.



The surviving buildings have been lovingly restored. The modern architecture that dots the skyline now is world-class in its originality and beauty. Mexico City has always been blessed with their gardens, and tree-lined streets, so most of the central part of the city is green and still has those colonial rock streets, that were there 40 years ago. We stayed at La Casona (highly recommended), a small hotel that bent over backwards to make sure we had a loving family-like experience. Karen wanted a mojito on our last night (it was a very small bar by the way), and our waiter said they had no mint. Next to our table were two men, and a lovely women (lovely), when the woman came to us and asked what it was we wanted again. Mojito. Turns out she was the hotel manager. She sent someone out for mint, and Karen had her mojito in about 5 minutes. So Mexican.

I can endlessly go on about the archeological museum (a 3-day journey to see everything), the Modern Art Museum with their Frieda's, Tamayo’s, O’Gorman’s, Orozco’s, etc, and the pyramids (Larry climbed the sun pyramid with Ed, Karen and I hung with the vendors that flock to the pyramids), but the true surprise was the National Palace (The White House of Mexico). We went to see the Diego Rivera murals depicting the history of “the struggle” here, and found an exhibition on the history of the revolutions of Mexico, and it’s war with the United States. Our one hour mural field trip turned into a four hour journey through the history of Mexico. The American War (as they refer to it) is a paragraph in our history books (and I know, because I taught history), but it was a revelation to see the photos, read the testaments of participants, and get the Mexican perspective on our role in Mexico. Clearly we were imperialist pigs in this involvement, and from this exhibit you can clearly understand the pride Mexico has for standing up to this invasion, and managing to drive the Americans out. It was pivotal in Mexican history. They had been invaded or taken over so many times, and yet pulled it together once again... Amazing.

But what was also clearly on show here in this exhibit, was how complicated the history of Mexico is. It is a country of revolutions, and most likely will continue to be, as indigenous/poor peoples will, we hope, become included in the conversation that moves this country towards a democracy. We also visited the Basilica de Virgin de Guadalupe, Mexico’s holiest site (think Lourdes, Fatima, etc). I know I am so sacreligious here, but I truly believe there is not a village in Oaxaca, that the Virgin hasn’t appeared, more on that later), but the vibes from this site, viewing the robe attributed to Juan Diego (the young Indian youth to whom the Virgin appeared), the new Basilica, and the old cathedral, well, you know you are in a very holy place. Very moving, the whole experience. We even got to check out the Pope mobile that is parked on the plaza next to the church.

to be continued...

Turtles and Valentine’s Day

In Mexico Valentine’s Day is a very romantic day, but it is also a day of friendship, when friends shamelessly express love for dear friends.. Amistad (friendship) is mentioned often on this day -- encompassing more than amigo -- a deeper connection, and is said with such heartfulness. This is also the season of the sea turtle hatchings on our beaches, and Valentine’s Day warns us to be careful when we go to the special beaches that still host these magnificent females. Those little ones will be hatching and heading for the sea any day now.

A few months ago, word among the people living south of us on the beaches had spotted a leatherback turtle. Old timers have said they haven’t seen the likes in 35+ years. Friends out on a boat at the same time, spotted a leatherback as well. She was spotted waddling up the beach and laying eggs in front our friends house. It was such an event that they notified the environmental guys immediately, and now the hatchings are imminent. We are waiting for the phone call. This is almost as exciting as when I was with my sister when she gave birth to her sons. Almost.

The leatherback is the 4th largest modern reptile, and largest sea turtle out there (thank you wikipedia, a forum I once banned from research papers as a source), and is on the endangered species list. Like really endangered. The environmental guys will be there when they hatch as well as the community around the area, to ensure the babies make it back to the ocean. This has to be the most reverent experience I have almost ever witnessed here in Mexico. When you speak of the leatherbacks being back, people get a look in their eye, and a shift of mood occurs, a spiritualness if you will, because everyone knows this is a grand and blessed happening.

We will be kicking our own butts if we miss this. Larry and I head up to Mexico City next week for the big adventure. I haven’t been to Mexico City since I was 18...let’s not count those years... For Larry it has been about 35 years. We are meeting our dear friends, Karen and Ed, for a week of exploring. They have not been to Mexico City for 35+ years as well. I expect we will have a grand time. We have researched the museums, archaeological sites, murals, and nearly the most important thing of all, the restaurants (and Costco). We’re ready.

But I will be thinking of those turtles, and hope they can hold off until we get back. It would be so amazing to share this with friends. And that is what Valentine’s Day feels like here. Sharing those incredible days when the possibilities are limitless, friends abound, and we are helping the leatherback babies make it back to the ocean. And one day, 35-50 years from now, another will waddle up, lay eggs, and bring friends together once again, to help those babies back to the sea. Amistad.

Living in Mexico

The most frequently asked question, when Larry and I return to the US (and recently even in Costa Rica) is “aren’t you frightened living in Mexico?”. I know all of us who live here full time or part time just want to roll our eyes when we answer ‘No!’. We counter that it is safer here than our home stomping grounds (the San Francisco Bay Area for us). I’m just about ready to start carrying a page of statistics on violence in the US and Mexico, to do a comparison, when the occasion arises (as it always does). It’s a stupid question. Duh. We still live here, does it look like we have a problem with Mexico?

To be fair, Oaxaca, as well as other southern Mexico states, have been spared the troubles of the North. I was cruising through our hometown newspaper, the San Francisco Chronicle, the other day, catching up on the Mexico Mix forum, just to see what others were saying about their recent experiences. What struck me was that Huatulco was never mentioned. Never. How is it that such a beautiful place is not even mentioned? I have mixed emotions about this: the happy part says “good!” no one knows about this part of Mexico yet (except seemingly the Canadians, and how is that??) , and sad, because the economy of this region could use the boost of those tourist dollars that are going to other parts of Mexico.

I read through the articles on tequila (yes, quite good), the mezcal (an acquired taste to be sure) the chocolate (well, we’ll talk), safe travel tips (those lonely, dark, less travelled roads), medical tourism (for those of us not insured, or looking for cheap, but effective alternatives, this is a plus), and living here. Ah! Living here. How can you not love Huatulco or Oaxaca overall. It boasts one of the prettiest cities in Mexico, and the loveliest coastline anywhere in the world, surrounded by the Sierra Madre Sur. Ok, the roads slightly-to-mostly suck (and the topes don’t help).

We were out at Hagia Sofia (http://hagiasofia.mx/english5.htm) the other day, and were struck once again about how unique this area is. It is 1/2 hour trip up the mountain from the beach, on the road to Pluma Hildalgo (coffee). To be fair, Hagia Sofia is unique, a former coffee plantation run by Germans who bailed 50+ years ago when coffee prices slumped, has been turned into a tropical botanical garden, with fruit trees and flowers from Mexico, Central America and Southeast Asia. It is a project developed by Armando Canavati-Nader that is meant to celebrate Oaxaca, and provide jobs and economic opportunities for local communities.

It is also such a Mexican experience, in that we were made to feel immediately at home upon arrival there, greeted with a breakfast quesedillas, and fruit and juices from their organically grown trees. We sat around having great conversation with Armando and his staff, and after a hearty little walk through an incredibly beautiful preserve, we were served a lunch that celebrates local cooking, a taste of the local mezcal (because there is always a local mezcal), and a dip in the waterfall pool.

This excursion followed an evening with friends on the beach in El Mojon, where we had a bonfire on the beach, and counted constellations in the most brilliant night sky we have almost ever seen. Astronomy 101 was never so easy. All of this in our own backyards, so to speak. The people of Oaxaca are lovely, warm cheerleaders for their region. There is always something to see and do, new foods to try (because with at least 7 distinct regions in Oaxaca, you have ample opportunities to taste something delicious and unique), music and art to soothe the soul, and the best weather (except we all agree May can be left out of the year here) most of the year. Even the rainy season, which transforms Huatulco into a tropical rain forest, is beautiful, and no one even comes during this time of the year. Just as well. Those of us who live here love to see our seasonal friends come (and go), but we get this place the rest of the time all to ourselves....