Oaxaca Days

Adriana, Rene, Renecito, Diego - Casa de los Milagros

Preface: The next blog will be exclusively about Will and Daniel, because they wanted to be the only topic of a blog..sooner the better. So few words are about them here. They deserve a blog entry unto themselves.

I am hanging out at the Casa de Los Milagros, our last evening in Oaxaca city. We have had a wonderful time here as usual. Rene, Adriana and family, the Casa inn keepers. have become great friends, and in fact visited us in Huatulco last week. Renecito and Diego, their two sons, are five years old, and 18 months old. They make this place feel like a home away from home, and we always have a great experience when we stay with them.

Before we let Will and Daniel go off to Monte Alban yesterday, they were subjected to breakfast at the Casa. Let's put it this way, Rick Bayless used the Casa last year because of it's kitchen, and he's coming back this year, in September. If you don't know who he is, look him up. Their kitchen is pictured in design books, and it is my dream kitchen (and everyone else who has stayed here and cooks wants this kitchen). Paula, our breakfast cook, makes traditional Oaxacano breakfasts, along with the local pan dulce, Veracruz coffee (even though Oaxacan coffee is plenty gourmet), and fresh squeezed juice, and fresh fruit.

Will and Daniel did get up to Monte Alban yesterday, and apparently had a fantastic tour of the site. They both came back full of information, and pictures (Daniel took all the pictures, Will didn't bring a camera, he had Daniel), of this ancient Zapotecan site. It is situated on the top of a hill overlooking the city of Oaxaca and the valley.. As soon as I get some pictures from Daniel, I'll post a few.

Today we went out to Etla to find a glassblower. Rene turned us on to a glass blower from the states, who has opened up a glassblowing business here. We had a goblet that needed repairing (you know the Waterford Crystal thing), and heard he was a talented artisan. Checked out his shop, left the glass, and yes indeed he his quite good. His team was working on making 175 handblown mezcal bottles (can you imagine). Etla is a valley north of Oaxaca, and their market day is on Friday, so we had to stop. Market Day varies here in the Oaxaca area, and each community market has distinctive attributes. But we are always on the lookout for artisan goods, and honey. Honey here is the food of the Gods. Mountain honey is amazing. We bought two liters for $120 pesos (maybe $8, US), along with some herbs, and an apron I had to have; we did well.

Tonight we tried a new restaurant here in Oaxaca, Los Danzantes. Amazing. Black tempura fish meatballs, roast duck on a bed of mole and rice. Will had a steak with stuffed chilles, Daniel the tortilla soup. Empanadas with quava and cream cheese in a mezcal sauce, flourless chocolate cake, a lot of good Mexican wine. Will and Daniel are getting a taste of the famous Oaxacan cooking.

Casa's Kitchen, where I could spend my entire life cooking...

We had a rare time in Oaxaca this week, and it went by too fast; we still didn't get to all the places we planned to visit. Nor did I get to shop as much as I love to here. But as I sit in the courtyard, and wind down from this trip, I appreciate that the Casa de Los Milagros gives us refuge at the end of the day, and already I am looking forward to our return in August. Larry and Daniel have headed out to the Zocalo this evening, to check on the occupation of striking teachers there (this is the most political region in Mexico, and elections are July 4). Will has gone off to bed, and I am writing my blog........ buenas noches.

Courtyard of Casa..lovely all the time